We sat having breakfast in the superb Croft Cottege B&B as the Lewis ferry cut its way between Isle Martin and the Summer Isles towards Ullapool. It was a wonderful view in a cosy conservatory with qualify food.
The cottage is nestled into the hillside at Ardmair, just over the Rhue Hill from Ullapool, and was once home to the grandparents of Julian, one of the joint owners.
It is only a short walk from the B&B to the pebble beach where you can see an abundance of wildlife and enjoy glorious sunsets during the summer and the Northern Lights in winter.
Julian and co-owner John have transformed the croft, which sits among fields with sheep, and you drive up a short track which can be populated by roaming hens.
Full renovations started in 2023 with the Gaelic word, cosagach as the key. It means snug or cosy, and the object was to create a B&B in which guests could chill and feel really comfortable. Undoubtedly, they have.
Nothing was too much trouble and the duo even pointed out where the potholes were on the road to Ullapool. Good job, they were deep.
Our room was spotless, sizeable and the bed really comfortable. We woke up to a fantastic view on a blustery day, and the food was beautifully prepared and presented.
Piping hot porridge, made the traditional way, a full Scottish or fish – locally sourced salmon was an option along with perfect poached eggs – and a selection of toast.
This was, without doubt, the best accommodation we experienced on our trip so take a bow, Julian and John.
Ullapool itself is a few miles away, on the shores of Lochbroom, and we ventured forth. The freshening wind prevented us taking one of the varied walks in the area and the town is said to be an ideal base for touring Wester Ross. It is also the gatweay – by ferry – to Lewis.
We dined in the Ceilidh Place, a hotel, bunkhouse, cafe/bar, restaurant and, curiously, a bookshop. It also hosts entertainment.
It has a big menu featuring favourites and specials created by in-house chefs with Scott Morrison at the helm. Local produce is used.
The tomato and red pepper soup was top drawer and the mains were distinctive. The marmalade pudding was the star attraction, however.
There are fish and chip outlets, including award-winners, the aroma as you passed by was tempting.
MAIN PICTURE: The view from Croft Cottage. Picture Nigel Duncan
CROFT COTTAGE: A wee gem nestling into the hillside near Ullapool. Picture Nigel Duncan
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