We were meeting friends and the venue had to be central Edinburgh. It also had to be atmospheric, memorable, warm and suitable for a chat with no loud music.

The food also had to be good and the price mid-range. Step forward Café Marlayne at 76 Thistle Street, Edinburgh (EH2 1EN).

We’ve used it before. It is small and the restriction was sit down at 6.15pm and out at 8.15pm.

That was acceptable. Service was slick, it had to be with the time restriction, and we skipped starters although the moules mariniere and rabbit terrine with gherkin, warm anchovie toast, carrot ketchup and wholegrain mustard were appealing.

Four of our party plumped for 6oz, Aberdeen Angus ribeye with grilled portobello mushroom, garlic butter, walnut and watercress salad and horseradish cream.

The rack of lamb with celeriac and parmesan puree looked appealing but the whole sea bass could not be overlooked.

All mains here are served with potatoes and green beans, a good move, and the meal was appreciated by all. Portions would have been a tad bigger but the quality was there.

Delicious sticky toffee pudding was a must to finish and so was the fruit frangipane tart. Great picks. Full of flavour.

We were satisfied and had extra dwell time at the table as the party due cancelled.

Their loss. Intimate restaurant this but well worth a visit.

By the way, they only accept telephone bookings on 0131 226 2230

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Experienced news, business, arts, sport and travel journalist. Food critic and managing editor of a well-established food and travel website. Also a magazine editor of publications with circulations of up to 200,000 and managing director of a long-established PR/marketing company with a string of blue-chip clients in its CV. Former communications lecturer at a Scottish university and social media specialist for a string of successful and busy SMEs.