“Free coffee seems pretty popular!”
The barista’s conclusion was well evidenced by the very busy morning that Capetto, the new basement cafe-bar on Howe Street, enjoyed on Friday.
On social media, this new venture from the team behind the restaurant Little Capo (upstairs from Capetto) had announced: “Let’s give the coffee machine a workout!” before they start charging. A soft launch of sorts. That machine was working overtime as a steady stream of customers made their way in down into this basement venue.
Long queues are not uncommon in the area, highlighted by the famously long queue for Lannan’s Bakery. This wasn’t quite so extreme, but it did spill out from the basement, up the stone steps and onto the street. Despite the busyness, the service was friendly and welcoming.
A Mediterranean feel with a contemporary edge
We decided to sit in and were shown to a nice little nook. It reminded us of cafe bars in Athens, which often occupy old, and sometimes formerly abandoned, houses, renovated in a way that preserves their character while carving out plenty of intimate corners.
Capetto’s rough stone walls, painted a tasteful peach and hung with several striking prints, have a similar Mediterranean feel, but with a distinctly contemporary edge. The subtle lighting sets a lovely atmosphere, and the tables strike the right balance between cafe by morning and bar by night. As they put it ‘All day coffee – snacks – cocktails’.
This style of “continental” cafe bar has yet to really catch on in the city, though it seems like a smart use of space and a sharp read of the ever growing demand for good coffee and baked goods. Stockbridge is often said to be packed with places like this, but the truth is that most of them are consistently busy, suggesting the area is still undersupplied.
Worth the wait
Given the sheer number of customers, it was no surprise the coffee took a little while to arrive, though again the staff were attentive, apologising for the delay rather than leaving us in the dark. When it did arrive, it was well worth the wait. Even the small details added something: the glasses were thick and ribbed, so they could be held comfortably even while the liquid was hot.
The house espresso comes from the micro roasters Spaceboy, founded by award winning roaster Finn McLean. I’d heard very good things about Spaceboy from one of the baristas at The Source, often considered the city’s best specialty coffee spot. Great beans are one thing, but would the baristas have the technique and experience to do them justice? The rich crema on our two cortados suggested they did, and the first sip confirmed it. Rich, powerful and balanced, with a really satisfying finish. I’m sure I won’t be the only one rushing back to pay for it next time.
Set to be popular
As we left, the staff reflected on their very busy morning, but there was an overwhelming sense of satisfaction that things had gone well. They’d already made their mark. As one customer left, she put it simply: “You’re going to do very well, no doubt.”
There’s certainly plenty of custom to be had in the area, with a steady flow of passers by, including tourists. The expanded Tribe Yoga next door should be another source of footfall. Indeed, there’s been a lot of development on the street in recent months, with a clutch of new businesses opening, including Cabbage, a “collection of beautiful homewares, clothing and vintage finds for a creative home.” Capetto looks set to be a very popular addition to Howe Street.
