I wrote about local treasure The Bonnington in May last year, praising their shareable Sunday lunch feasts. On a cold January evening, I ventured back to sample their staple pub fare.
Under new management since October 2022, The Bonnington has been quietly transforming into a neighbourhood gem under Carlo Carrozzi’s stewardship. A dog-friendly establishment, it was lovely to see owners and their faithful hounds catching up with friends in the bar area as we entered.
We dined in the lower restaurant area, tucked into one of the booths. The décor is basic – dark green walls with fairy lights adorning the windows – and it was a shame to see it relatively quiet on a Saturday evening. But it is January, after all, and people are likely counting their pennies after the festive season. For anyone having a frugal month, The Bonnington is my recommendation for hearty portions, good value, and warm hospitality.
The menu is simple and functional, consisting of bar snacks, small plates, burgers, and large plates. We started with a mix of small plates – normally my pet peeve, as there’s never enough to share. Thankfully, The Bonnington’s portions are anything but small. The Coronation Fried Cauliflower was silky and soft, while the Korean Chicken had a lovely bite, and the Smoked Haddock Fishcakes with Tartare Sauce barely touched the sides. At £5 per dish, these are portion sizes that will leave you satisfied and pleased in equal measure.
Mains are reasonably priced at £15. There’s nothing fancy here – just good old pub grub done well with generous portions. Think bangers and mash, haggis neeps and tatties, mac and cheese, fish and chips, and bacon chop with egg and chips.
The Bangers and Mash with Onion Gravy arrived as two plump sausages atop silky smooth mash, smothered in lashings of sweet onion gravy. While utterly delicious, In a rare occurrence, the mash defeated its devourer, Derek (one of the Social Bitches) and he couldn’t finish it. My bacon chop was just the right size, was perfectly seasoned and served with two golden-yolked fried eggs and enough chips to mop everything up. I didn’t have any trouble finishing this one!
Unfortunately, the kitchen’s oven had failed, so desserts were off the menu on this occasion. Those with a sweet tooth can normally look forward to chocolate fondant (I’ve tried it before, and it’s divine), sticky toffee pudding, or Bramley apple crumble, all served with vanilla ice cream or homemade custard.
We circumvented the broken oven issue by ordering vanilla ice cream, and the chef kindly created an improvised toffee sauce. While appreciated, it had a burnt sugar taste that somewhat overpowered the ice cream – a hint of salt might have elevated it.
The Bonnington isn’t going to win any food and drink awards, but if you’re looking for a dog-friendly establishment without too many airs and graces that serves great pub grub at reasonable prices, support local and pay it a visit. Their Sunday lunch is also an absolute steal. But until their oven is fixed, this might be off the menu for now. So do check – and it’s worth ordering this one in advance, if you do intend to visit.
The Bonnington, 284 Bonnington Road, Edinburgh EH6 5BE, Scotland | +44 131 554 5824
https://www.thebonningtonleith.com/
