A frail, slight woman, her face mask askew, inched her way towards a shrine in a busy, incense-filled temple in the heart of Charles Town, Penang, her path blocked by other worshipers, but mostly by camera-welding tourists.
We felt intruders. This was her time. Yes, we were both there for a purpose, but hers was deeply spiritual, ours was trivial and ephemeral in comparison.
The encounter lasted only seconds, but it left a memory which will last. The other parts of the temple were also packed on this sweltering Saturday morning.
Worshipers queued to buy sheets of paper to fill in extensive family details and wish lists which were filed neatly in boxes at an alter. They will remain there for 12 months and then disposed of.
Others were burning requests in three furnaces at the entrance, sending messages to the gods, we were told, just like Christian children send to Santa Claus according to our guide. A trivial contrast, possibly.
The temple was round the corner from an Anglican church and near a temple shared by Hindu and Muslim worshipers. There are Catholic places of worship nearby.
They all live, apparently, in harmony in this delightful city famous as a top culinary, cultural and UNESCO-listed heritage destination and renowned for its street art, colonial architecture and its diverse, multi-cultural population.
It is far cry from the undoubted sophistication of Singapore, but one fellow cruiser indicated that Penang was a mirror image of Singapore 35 years ago.
Penang was a delight and we wandered, pester-free, through the streets. Yes, there was the usual welcoming party of locals offering all manner of excursions, but once away from the port area, they were nowhere to be seen.
Watch out for rickshaws – they are costly, local currency (Malaysian Ringgit) 40 to 50 per hour, and they do guided tours from locations including Armenian Street.
Otherwise you are free to drink in the atmosphere and have your eardrums assailed by a fund-raising street drummer, blasting out ABBA hits from a portable speaker and keeping the beat on his drum kit made from recycled plastic and tin pots.
There are lots of small shops selling local souvenirs, many made as you browse, and you may be tempted by inexpensive street food in Little India. It looked scrummy. We were warned to be careful. We were.
PENANG HARBOUR: view from one of the many bars on the ship. Picture Nigel Duncan
TEMPLE COURTYARD: A fleeting moment when the area was not packed with worshipers and tourists. Picture Nigel Duncan
DOWNTOWN: A typical street in this gorgeous place. Picture Nigel Duncan
