Adapting to a shifting landscape
Fortitude Coffee has been a leading light of Edinburgh’s specialty coffee scene for nearly a decade. Their locations consistently offer some of the most elegant spots in the city to enjoy a carefully crafted brew, known for their airy, light-filled spaces set against high ceilings. As a business, Fortitude has evolved in line with the shifting sands of the city’s economy.
The recent closure of their Newington branch marks the latest stage in this evolution, reflecting the wider flux in the sector and how specialty coffee often mirrors (and even pre-empts) urban shifts. Fortitude’s original café in York Place, opened in 2014, was instrumental in establishing their reputation for excellence, but it ultimately closed in 2023. This reflected the difficulties faced by many city-centre spots following pandemic lockdowns—a trend exemplified by closures like Castello Coffee on Castle Street and Cairngorm’s original location on Frederick Street (now at 1 Melville Place).
Fortitude was well-positioned, however, to capitalise on a corresponding shift in demand toward the city’s busier suburbs. In 2020, they took over the former Ronde cycle shop site at 66 Hamilton Place in Stockbridge, creating another particularly elegant space. The Stockbridge branch is a classic example of how to reuse old shop units, while retaining aspects of its original character. For instance, they kept the lovely tiled walls but opened out the interior, creating an airy and warm space showcasing a long wooden counter filled with gleaming built-in coffee making equipment. Coffee geeks will quickly clock the Modbar under the counter espresso machine. This positioning of the coffee equipment at counter top level helps maintain the feeling of spaciousness and the Scandinavian influenced furniture gives the shop a lovely feel. However , having opened in February 2020, within a few weeks it had to adjust to a tough new reality.
The Stockbridge hub and suburban success
During lockdown, the popularity of the Stockbridge location was typified by long queues—sometimes stretching half an hour—for a top-class coffee that baristas consistently delivered without rushing. As I can attest from personal experience, the Stockbridge café remains consistently busy, serving as a local work spot and attracting substantial custom from the increasing numbers of tourists who head to this part of the city.
More recently, patrons queue for Lannan’s baked treats before heading to Fortitude for their coffee. A polite policy stating that “only food bought at Fortitude should be consumed here” is necessary—a testament to some customers who have succumbed to the temptation to dip into their Lannan’s haul!. Indeed, a window-side seat at the Stockbridge branch provides the privilege of monitoring the length of that “iconic” queue opposite. One way that Fortitude has evolved is in, after trying it for several months, cutting the savoury food options. They now focus their attention on their coffees and teas, plus sweet baked goods. This reflects the inherent difficulty of serving excellent meals alongside coffee, and the much larger team you need to do so. Given how busy Fortitude’s Stockbridge branch is, dropping the food seems like a sensible move.
The Abbeyhill investment
I spoke with Matt Carroll, co-founder with his wife Helen, at their Abbeyhill branch. Abbeyhill’s growing prominence as a desirable residential area has now established it as a destination, with influencers drawing attention to local ‘hubs’. Its proximity to the eatery-rich top end of Easter Road (or Feaster Road, as The Guardian dubbed it) adds to its appeal. In coffee terms, Fortitude is close to one of Edinburgh’s leading specialty places, Little Fitzroy.
Located at 4 Abbey Mount, EH8 8EJ, the branch was a collaborative opening with the design firm Splintr. Announced in late 2023 as the new home after the York Place closure, its design thoughtfully integrated reclaimed Iroko hardwood from the old location. This features a prominent slatted coffee bar, all set against muted green and off-white hues intended to create a soothing ambiance and highlight the rich wood elements. On a damp morning, the place was a lovely location for focused work, with the long wooden table in the back left corner a magnet for groups.
Matt admitted the Newington branch had never achieved the hoped-for volume. Furthermore, operational headaches like a flood and ceiling collapse, which caused the café to shut for a period, had created additional issues. He expressed delight that the closure ended on good terms, with an “easy” release of the rental contract and the smooth passing of the café to a new lease holder.
For the foreseeable future, Matt sees the business focusing on their successful Abbeyhill and Stockbridge branches, alongside the roastery. Given escalating costs, and the wider economic climate, he does not foresee them opening a new branch anytime soon. Two busy branches is enough for now.
The Newington chapter closes: Onto is born
Fortitude set up its third location at 72 Newington Road in 2021. It built a “good brand of regulars,” including staff from nearby institutions. However, this branch was situated in a quieter part of town. My own experience confirmed the steady but unhurried custom—great for a quiet break, but less sustainable given the high operating costs, including substantially rising bean prices. Fortitude announced the permanent closure on October 31st. On a positive note, the space was immediately taken over by Vaidas, Fortitude’s former café manager, who has opened, @ontocoffee_.
Popping in in early November, Vaidas was still finding his feet. He apologised to a customer that the coffee bean stocks were low but promised ‘we are getting all sorts of stuff in soon’. Onto is using beans by Mutual, a high-calibre new entrant to the local scene, giving Vaidas the chance to carve out his own niche with different roasters. Vaidas admits that he’s ‘still figuring things out’, but he’s already had support from former Fortitude regulars. As I sat sipping my very tasty coffee, every person coming in asked Vaidas about the reopening, all happy to see the place continuing – and under the management of an experienced barista.
Refining the recipe
Fortitude’s journey—from the pioneering elegance of York Place to the successful community hub in Stockbridge, and finally the necessary consolidation after the quieter Newington chapter—is a microcosm of the specialty coffee industry in Edinburgh. It is a story of consistently excellent product meeting the volatile reality of high overheads and shifting local demand.
By refocusing on their established, bustling locations and their core role as roasters, Fortitude is strategically refining its recipe to ensure its well-crafted coffee continues to thrive across the city for years to come.
Fortitude (Abbeyhill) 4 Abbey Mount, EH8 8EJ.
Fortitude (Stockbridge) 66 Hamilton Place, EH3 5AZ
Onto, 72 Newington Road, EH9 1QN
