When is a bar not a bar? (when it’s a saloon, or a comedy club for that matter).

The Cambridge Dictionary describes a saloon as a bar in a pub or hotel that is more comfortable than other bars, and in which you certainly pay a little more for the drink. That’s not strictly true at The Gilded Saloon – the drinks aren’t any more expensive than you’d pay in any other bar in town – and the food prices are more affordable than visiting a restaurant.

I finally got to visit The Gilded Saloon on Lothian Street, not once but twice in one weekend. Open since the start of the Fringe, it’s the new collaboration (or collab, as the cool kids would say) in ‘students’ ville’ aka Bristo Square.

It’s the brainchild of three creative forces, with Tomás Gormley (Cardinal and Skua) bringing finesse to the kitchen as its Executive Chef. Co-owners include Paradise Palms Bars & Events next door – popular with those searching for a vegan menu (not me!), Kelburn Arts, who made their name with the West Coast festival, and The Gilded Balloon, the Fringe venue and comedy producer that runs comedy events downstairs and is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year.

I wasn’t here to check out the comedy offering this occasion; I had done plenty of that during the Fringe, but I was more interested in the food. The first time on a Friday lunch with a friend visiting the city, having taken in some culture, visiting the excellent Ikea: Magical Patterns exhibition at the Dovecot (on until 17 January 2026 and well worth a visit). On the Saturday, I joined some foodie girl-friends for a pre-theatre lunch again before a somewhat depressing Tennessee Williams play at the Lyceum. After endless WhatsApp messages and 15 suggestions later, the Gilded Saloon won the food vote, probably with the draw of Tomás Gormley, who we’re all fans of.

The interior is very pub-like, with leather booths that could comfortably sit 4-6 at a push, wooden tables and chairs, a well-stocked bar with Newbarns and Tennents beers, and an eclectic collection of earthenware vases and Wally Dugs – those decorative ceramic spaniel figurines, also known as Staffordshire dogs that were popular in 19th and 20th century Britain, lining the shelves. Rather menacing, even kitsch.

The menu is divided into snacks, starters, mains, some specials, sides, and three desserts, including a savoury Welsh Rarebit. On Friday, I started with the chicken liver pâté – rich, smooth, and generously portioned with proper sourdough toast and a sharp chutney and cornichons that cut through the richness perfectly. I had to request more toast to do justice to the amount of pâté presented on the vintage plate, and Tomás’ famous fried chicken thigh with hot peach sauce was definitely a winner winner chicken dinner. The portions were generous and at a good price point at £7 – £8.

Mains are reasonably priced too at £12, with the Market Fish of the Day at £15. I had the Grilled Chicken Leg with Lentils à la Française, which was the perfect lunchtime size, albeit one-legged, while my companion’s burger was beautifully cooked with a plump patty and all the right components, and a generous side order of hand-cut chips.


Saturday’s pre-theatre visit, I opted for just a dessert, an amazing silky smooth Basque cheesecake, as I hadn’t had room the day before.

With Tomás’ credentials spanning everything from fine dining to street food pop-ups, the execution was solid – perfectly pleasant pub fare elevated a notch, but this isn’t somewhere you’d mark as a destination location. The food won’t change your life, but it won’t disappoint either. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. It’s exactly what it should be: a comfortable spot to meet mates for a bite before catching a show, a pub cleverly masquerading as a saloon (a knowing wink to the Gilded Balloon’s comedy heritage).

Speaking of which, December’s comedy lineup downstairs is worth checking out. If you fancy something with a food and drink theme, catch drinks expert and comedy singer, Anna Lou Larkin’s ‘Mighty Sips’ show on Sunday, 14th December at 16.00 – the perfect pairing with some pre-show nosh upstairs. With music, storytelling, and an extra splash of cheeky humour, sample some delicious wines and sharpen your wine knowledge just in time for Christmas, in case you’re still wondering what to pair with your chipolatas.

Soundbites

Exciting openings continue to reshape Edinburgh’s food scene. Brown’s of Leith launched at the end of November within the historic George Works on the Shore – a unique collaborative space for food, drink and the arts, with four new businesses under one roof. Haze, from the makers of Timberyard and Montrose, blurs the lines between morning coffee and evening wine (open 8am-8pm), serving small plates and an impressive wine list inspired by some of Europe’s best wine bars. Shuck Bar celebrates the best of Scottish produce from celebrated Portobello seafood shack, ShrimpWreck. Civerino’s brings their Edinburgh-born, East Coast American-style pizza to the Shore. And Woven, a blending studio sourcing single malt and grain whiskies from across Scotland and beyond, offers tastings and masterclasses for visitors to get properly involved.

Meanwhile, I’m slightly concerned for my already groaning bookshelves, with Scotland’s only dedicated cookbook shop set to open on Haddington Place. Founded by Martyn and Liz Bryson, a couple with extensive careers in editing and publishing, the venue promises to bring together a passion for food, books and creativity, offering a welcoming community space that celebrates both culinary literature and the joy of sharing good food. To help make the vision a reality, the pair have launched a crowdfunding campaign inviting supporters to play a part in creating the space. Backers can receive tote bags, gift hampers, online cooking courses, event tickets, and signed books from cookbook authors, including Yotam Ottolenghi and Nigella Lawson, who have donated to support the project. I’ve got my fingers crossed that they reach their goal.

https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/the-cookbook-shop