Mowgli Edinburgh – a festive feast with Indian soul

When Mowgli opened its doors on Hanover Street in April 2023, it felt like welcoming an old friend to the city.

Having first fallen for their charms in Manchester nine years ago, I went along to see how their Christmas Feasting Menu would measure up.

Located in their stunning home – a B-listed former Clydesdale Bank building crowned with an impressive cupola, the space itself is magical, draped in twinkling fairy lights that create an enchanting atmosphere year-round.

I’ve long admired Mowgli’s CEO, Nisha Katona, who left a 20-year career in 2014 as a Child Protection barrister to set up Mowgli. Nisha had a nagging obsession to build an eatery serving the kind of food Indians eat at home and on their streets.

Passionate about growth, she builds Mowgli simply to enrich lives in the cities where they go to, by creating jobs in a nourishing workplace, giving back to their communities through charitable giving and spreading the love of an Indian home kitchen.

The £35 Christmas Feasting Menu starts with a welcome glass of fizz or Cobra beer alongside their iconic Chat Bombs. These crisp bread puffs, filled with chickpeas, spiced yoghurt and tamarind, demand to be eaten in one mouthful – though serving five between two diners creates an awkward moment of portion politics.

A word about those famous swing seats – while Instagram-worthy, they’re not for everyone (including those with dodgy knees). Thankfully, traditional seating is available, and the staff are accommodating when it comes to preferences.

The menu features some standout dishes: punchy Gunpowder Chicken and Himalayan Cheese Toast with its warming spiced cheddar, particularly shine.

The main event comes in towering tiffin boxes filled with chef-selected curries. The butter chicken, gently requested, was everything I remembered, while the Mowgli House Chicken – a Keralan curry with coconut milk and almonds – proved equally impressive.

While the enthusiastic young staff bring great energy, there were some opening-night jitters with the Christmas menu. The timing of dishes needed fine-tuning (mains arrived before starters), and portion guidance needed clarification – one tiffin box between two would not have sufficed. However, their manager was quick to step in and sort out my concern that it should be one tiffin box each, rather than one shared between two.

Though the chocolate brownie was absent on our visit, the alternative desserts – salted caramel and coconut ice cream cones – provided a satisfying finale, although that’s not necessarily standard on the Christmas menu, instead a mango sorbet cone is on offer.

Verdict: Despite some service hiccups, Mowgli’s Christmas Feasting Menu offers a vibrant alternative to traditional festive fare. At £35 per person (available until 5 January), it’s ideal for those seeking something different for their Christmas celebrations and offers vegan and vegetarian options too. The food remains true to its home-cooking roots, and the atmospheric setting makes every meal feel special.

Tips:

• Skip the swing seats if you have mobility concerns
• Don’t hesitate to ask for guidance on portion sizes
• Consider requesting staggered service if you prefer a more measured dining pace