CABO – a Pacific-fusion debut with promise but room to grow
In Edinburgh’s ever-evolving culinary landscape, it seems that when one door closes, another opens.
This time, CABO has stepped in to fill the space left by Superico on Hanover Street, offering the city’s first foray into Pacific-fusion dining. After just a few weeks of operation, it’s clear the restaurant has promise, but is still finding its rhythm—a common challenge in a city filled with competitive new openings.
Upon arrival, the restaurant’s large, dark interior may feel a little underwhelming, particularly if you’re dining during daylight hours. While greeted warmly by the cheerful general manager Han, we opted for a table by the window, preferring some natural light to soften the somewhat empty atmosphere. A Sunday lunch with just two other occupied tables felt quiet, but that’s likely more of a timing issue than anything else.
CABO’s menu is ambitious, blending Latin American and Mexican influences with a flair for bold spices, chillis, and peppers. With the option of either a reasonably priced set menu (two courses for £16 or three for £19) or a more expansive à la carte selection, there’s a variety of intriguing dishes to explore. However, despite the accessibility of the set menu, it was the à la carte offerings that piqued our interest.
We started with some well-presented Bloody Marys—my companion opting for extra spicy. In fact, the green chilli garnish in my companion’s drink added a fiery kick, aptly described as “hotter than the hinges of hell”. Our subsequent bottle of rosé, though pleasant, was priced at £32, which seems steep for one of the cheaper wines on the list.
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To begin, we shared a selection of CABO’s smaller plates. The Beef Short Rib Croquettes, though flavourful, were on the dry side, and could have benefited from a more generous helping of aioli. The Aji Amorillo Glazed Corn Ribs, on the other hand, were delightfully moreish, though slightly cumbersome to eat without making a mess. The Chicken El Pastor soft-shell tacos, bursting with mango and chipotle, were a highlight, though predictably messy, especially if eaten with one’s fingers.
Moving on to the main courses, there were some hits and misses. My Aji Panca Marinated Lamb Rump was succulent and cooked perfectly to my preference, paired beautifully with sweet potato fondant and golden raisins. It was, however, disappointing that the sauce had split, and the dish—like my companion’s scallops—was served tepid, with cold plates to boot.
My dining companion, who had initially planned to order the seabass, was instead offered scallops due to what we suspect was a minor white lie about that day’s fish delivery not being to his liking. While the scallops were generous, the Rocoto beurre blanc had also split, and the huge portion of chopped chorizo overpowered the delicate flavour of the scallops. Still, the underlying quality of the ingredients was clear, even if the execution was inconsistent.
Dessert offered a sweet end to the meal, with the Pineapple Ceviche stealing the show. Thinly sliced pineapple with chilli and coconut ice cream was a refreshing and imaginative palate cleanser. My Matcha Alfajore, though well-intentioned, was a bit dry and could have used an extra scoop of gelato to balance it out.
Despite these early teething problems—split sauces, cold plates, and a few overly ambitious flavour combinations—CABO shows real potential. The service was warm, attentive, and eager to please, and the menu is adventurous with a clear commitment to high-quality ingredients. In a city teeming with new restaurants, it’s clear that CABO is still finding its feet, but with a few tweaks, it could become a strong contender in Edinburgh’s dynamic dining scene.
With a bit more refinement and attention to the finer details, CABO could carve out a loyal following. We’ll be keeping an eye on how it evolves over the coming months.